The K-drama Hanbok (한복) Collection (A helpful guide to the Hanbok fans with Introduction)

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For another type of hanbok, we have the popular:

Saekdongot
-  a type of hanbok with colorful stripes by patchworking.
- It began to be used for hanbok since the Goryeo period (918 – 1392).
- The name literally means "many colored (saekdong) clothes (ot)" in Korean. It was usually worn by children from the age of one to seven year old.

Important note to remember: 
- Such appliances of saekdong (the patchwork of colorful stripes) has been used throughout hanbok such as jeogori (a short jacket with sashes), magoja (a buttoned jacket), durumagi(an overcoat) and among other garments.




Application of the "saekdong," or the patchwork of different colors on other hanbok garments and accessories:

1. Jeogori with stripes of different colors, called as "saekdong jeogori," for children.


((photo and info source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saekdongot))


2. "Saekdong Jeogori" for adults, both male and female

3. Saekdong on purses

(photo source: http://www.youngminlee.com/blog/3767)

4. Saekdong on bed sheets

(photo source: Pinterest)

*There are even on shoes and hats, which I will post about later on.

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Let us now explore another garments that compliment the hanbok: the popular "overcoats," or generally known as Po.

Po (포)
- a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat in hanbok which was worn mostly by men since the Goryeo period until the Joseon period. In western equivalent, it would be "jackets," and these are the types:

1. Dopo


- a variety of po which was mostly worn by male Confucian scholars called seonbi after the mid Joseon period. Seonbi wore it as their daily garment as well as government officers did when they out for their private business. There are several speculations over the origin of the dopo. According to historical documents such as Seongho saseol (성호사설), Ojuyeon munjang jeonsango (오주연문장전산고), the garment was influenced by Buddhism. The authors claimed that dopo was originally monk's robe called,gwontu (권투 圈套) which was identical to jangsam, another monk's garment.
- it was tied in place by the saejodae, or the tassled cord, as a belt.
- Noblemen wore colorful saejodae, while the low class wore black only.

Wearing the dopo alone:

From: Cruel Palace/War of Flowers

Wearing dopo under the jeonbok, or sleeveless vest, tied with the saejodae. The jeonbok can be of matching color and patterns with the dopo, or it could be of different color or pattern, mix-matching. It's always up to the wearer's preference.

From: Arang and the Magistrate

2. Durumagi

 - usually the topmost layer of clothing that is worn over jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants). Durumagi means "closed all around", and is also known asjumagui (주막의, 周莫衣), juchaui (주차의, 周遮衣) or juui ( 주의, 周衣). Durumagi is worn not only to fend off the cold, but also for ceremonial purposes.

> History:
- The origin of durumagi traces back to at least the Goguryeo period, although Mongolian influence during the Goryeo period caused changes in its appearance. Not only was the waist belt changed into a [hanbok|goreum], the traditional po's short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat xurumakci, of which the name durumagi is said to be derived.
- During the Joseon Dynasty, the durumagi was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws. However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform of 1894, that the durumagi became common as formal attire.

> Materials used on each type of season:
- winter:  calico, wool, cotton, and various silks
- summer: fine ramie and silk gauze
- both spring and autumn: various silks and calico
- White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.

> Various types include: 
- hotedan durumagi (홑단 두루마기, single layer)
- gyup durumagi (겹두루마기, double layer)
- som durumagi (솜두루마기, cotton)
- kkachi durumagi (까치두루마기, magpie) or obangjang durumagi (오방장 두루마기, five colors) for children.

> Modern use:
The 'durumagi' is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions, but a variety of colors and designs are being used.

(info source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durumagi)


From: Sungkyungkwan Scandal

All clad in traditional Korean silk overcoats called "durumagi", leaders pose for a group photo at the APEC leaders' meeting in Busan in South Korea in this Nov. 19, 2005, file photo. [Photo/IC] (photo source: http://usa.chinadaily.com.cn/world/2014-11/02/content_18845230_9.htm)

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3. Kkachi durumagi

- is the children's colorful overcoat, worn on seollal (New Year's day) in the Lunar calendar.
- worn mostly by young boys and literally means a "magpie's overcoat." 
- also known as obangjang durumagi, which means "an overcoat of 5 directions," as follows: east (blue), west (white), south (red), north (black), center (yellow).
- The overcoat was named after the bird to reflect the folk belief because children longed for the cheerful holiday's coming.
- was worn over jeogori (a jacket) and jokki (a vest) while the wearer could put jeonbok (a long vest) over it. Kkachi durumagi was also worn along with headgear such as bokgeon (a peaked cloth hat), hogeon (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or gulle (decorative headgear) for young girls.
- In old days, kkachi durumagi were worn as seolbim (설빔), new clothing and shoes prepared for Seollal, while at present, it is used as a dorot, a ceremonial garment for doljanchi, celebration for a baby's first birthday.
- Seop (섶), the overlapped column of the garment in the center is made of a yellow fabric while gil (길), the large section of the garment in both front and back side is made of a fabric in yellowish green. 
- For boys, blue color is used for the portions called git (깃, a band of fabric that trims the collar), goreum (고름, strings at chest), doltti (돌띠, embroidered belt) respectively and purple is used for mu (무, gusset). 
- On the other hand, kkachi durumagi for girls has red or purple colored git, goreum and doltti and dark blue mu. The sleeves are made of two sheets of fabrics. The outer surface is made of a yellowish green fabric or saekdong (colorful stripes) fabric whereas the inner is rose pink in color.

Kkachi durumagi:


(Info and photos source: wikipedia.com)

Kkachi durumagi with a blue jeonbok, or sleeveless vest:

4. Sagyusam

- a type of po worn by young boys about to have their "gwallye," or coming-of-age ceremony.
- The name was derived from the shape, and the lower end of the garment is divided into 4 parts.

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Back then, as people adapted the teaching of Confucius, it was also taught that women of the old Korea should appear mysterious to men, and to achieve such effect, they had began to use veils to cover their faces when going out.
Several types of these veils were born, and we can see a lot of them on historical Korean dramas.
Types of veils:

1. Jangot  (장옷)

From: The Moon that embraces the Sun (Han Ga In as Yeon Woo)

From: Jang Ok Jung, living in love (Kim Tae Hee as Ok Jung)

- worn by women of the Joseon Dynasty period as a veil to cover their faces.- Jangot is similar to durumagi. The difference is, a jangot has a collar (git) and a ribbon for tying (goreum).

2. Sseugae Chima (쓰개 치마)

From: Sungkyungkwan Scandal (Park Min Young as Kim Yoon Hee/Shik)

From: The Moon that embraces the Sun (Han Ga In as Yeon Woo)

- a Veil of the Noblewomen. It's made like the "chima (치마, hanbok skirt)', but there's a difference between the two. 'Sseugae Chima' is much shorter and narrower than 'chima, for the very purpose that it can be used to cover a woman's face.- winter: cotton- summer: silk

3. Neoul (너울)

From: Cruel Palace/War of Flowers (Kim Hyun Joo as Concubine Lady Jo)

From: Cruel Palace/War of flowers (Song Seon Mi as Crown Princess)

- Neoul is the kind of veil that's used by women of the high class society.- They wore it when going out, attending rituals, and specially when riding horses.- the length and color of neoul is distinguished by status.- Queen consorts and Royal concubines wore long black ones, and court ladies wear short blue ones. - Originated from 'Mongsu (몽수)' in Goryeo Dynasty (고려 왕조, 1259 ~ 1351).

Here are clearer illustrations of the three most popular veils:

1. Jangot

2. Sseugae Chima

3. Neoul
(Photos source: http://costumeplanet.blogspot.com/2014/04/veils-of-ancient-korea-by-illustrations.html)